The new documentary from directors Ian Bonhôte and Peter Ettedgui focuses on the life of Alexander McQueen, one of the most innovative fashion designers in recent memory. It takes us on a journey from McQueen’s ground-breaking and inventive DIY beginnings in London’s East End to the pinnacle of the fashion world with Givenchy and his self-titled brand McQueen.
Peeling Back The Layers
Over its near two hour runtime, McQueen provides great insight into the life of this tortured artist. Bonhôte and Ettedgui paint a clear picture of Alexander McQueen and his journey to the top via archive VHS tapes recorded throughout his short life. In many ways this movie peels back the layers of icon wrapped around McQueen by the fashion industry.
Audiences with little knowledge of McQueen are in for a treat, and for those viewers who are already fans there’s a lot to learn and enjoy here too. The aforementioned tapes allow an inside look at the life of the man behind the clothes. Watching McQueen on his days off we see the charm and the cheekiness of the man when surrounded by those he loved most. Watching him work, accompanied by the words of the people at his side during it, is equally fascinating, opening up the dark inspiration behind his most famous shows.
The shows themselves are spectacular, and Bonhôte and Ettedgui blend perfectly the footage of the catwalks with the shots of McQueen ruminating backstage. His shows were always must-see and they lend themselves perfectly to the big screen.
Honest Tales of Joy and Pain
However, even his shows are overshadowed by the standouts of McQueen: the interviewees. They fill the documentary with anecdotes about McQueen and their own experiences with the man. This is no puff piece though, nor a piece of propaganda to further cement the man’s iconic status. The interviewees talk openly and honestly to the camera. First about the good times, the childish fun of McQueen and his drive and determination, but also frankly about moments when he disappointed them.
McQueen’s friendship with mentor Isabella Blow is discussed in detail, and his poor behaviour is never excused. This is because the interviewees here are those who knew him best. They include his immediate family such as his sister and nephew, and his closest work colleagues who spent untold hours each day working with McQueen. Sébastien Pons was a close friend of McQueen’s and a collaborator. Having worked with McQueen for many years, he left the company and their relationship suffered greatly, and he speaks with grace and truth about this experience. In what proves to be an extremely wise move, the film avoids fashion commentators altogether, those most likely to talk of McQueen the brand rather than McQueen the man.
And the focus here is squarely on McQueen the man. Although this story of course delves into his work it is always in relation to McQueen’s personal journey; he, his emotions and his work forever intertwined. The self-titled company itself, along with McQueen’s tenure at Givenchy are given plenty of time in the background but the focus remains solely on the man at the centre of it all. This gives McQueen a personal touch that is missing from so many documentaries on similarly iconic people.
A Legacy Too Large For Film
The movie ends with his untimely passing, and perhaps one of the only criticisms I can level at the film is that it does not explore beyond this. Throughout the film there are moments when McQueen’s legacy is hinted at. In an interview Alexander himself says that he would feel strange about anyone taking over his company once he leaves it behind. There is also a single mention of Sarah Burton, who during McQueen’s rise, joined him as an intern. Burton is now the creative director of Alexander McQueen and continues to be a leader in the fashion world. Therefore the film overtly hints at this without fully exploring it.
The film also rarely touches on one of the major tragedies of McQueen’s life: his trouble with addiction. Some time is dedicated to it as the film draws to its heartbreaking end, but the directors are more concerned with the early shows during his rise, and they leave little time to explore his addiction. This is a minor gripe though, and is just another of the aspects which are touched upon but not fully investigated. It is difficult to cover completely everything in a life such as McQueen’s. Even though it was so painfully short, he achieved so much and the film is an admirable attempt to cover as much as possible.
McQueen: An Excellent Portrait
McQueen’s life is one of great contrasts, and that is difficult to balance in a medium such as film. The light and the dark are so powerful throughout his story, and the directors do a great job of exploring both in near equal measure. The archive footage is a great aid in this, highlighting both the crackling boisterous energy and pure joy of McQueen, alongside his darker moments.
McQueen can join the pantheon of great 21st century documentaries that not only retell a life story but delve deep under the skin of the subject and present whole new layers. Fashion documentaries have become somewhat of a trend in the last few years, but most are little more than a frame for an icon. McQueen, just like its subject, is so much more than that.
Are you excited to see the new documentary on McQueen? Let us know your thoughts in the comments below.
McQueen is out now in the UK and will be released on July 20, 2018 in the USA.
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